Sunday, March 31, 2024

Day 26 - Goodbye Texas

Departure: Lumberton, TX      Finish:  DeRidder, LA     

Distance:    82.6 miles

Elevation gain:  1,244 feet (1,100’ downhill)

Winds: SW at 12 mph.

Weather:  Overcast. Occasional light rain  67 to 76 degrees.

On bike duration:   4 hrs, 46 minutes. 

Average speed: 17.3 mph

Total Accumulated Miles:  1,968.6

We left San Diego a month ago today, and entered Louisiana after 2 1/2 weeks in Texas. Almost 2,000 miles done.

The moderate wind was from the Southwest; delightfully so, since we were headed predominantly Northeast. We passed through Buda and Kirbyville, and had our lunch stop in Bon Wier just before crossing the border from Texas. 


There was a herd of goats, just over the fence from our lunch stop in the parking lot of a local Baptist Church. They were very interested in what we were up to. The feeling was mutual.

“Rita” found a comfortable position out front, where she can lead the way to Florida. Now, to figure out a worthy method to pass this mascot off to the next deserving participant.


I was interested to see that the wheat in Louisiana has already “headed out”; much earlier than the typical maturation of wheat in Central Kansas.


It’s another Best Western for us tonight and for our day off tomorrow. This one is a BW Plus. I have no idea what the Plus is about. Maybe it’s the roses. Maybe it’s the Walmart on the other end of the parking lot.



Saturday, March 30, 2024

Day 25 - No Hills! Less Traffic! No Flat Tires!

Departure: Cleveland, TX      Finish:  Lumberton, TX       

Distance:    69.2 miles

Elevation gain:  841 feet (1,102’ downhill)

Winds: Southern at 8 mph.

Weather:  High clouds; scattered to broken.  61 to 80 degrees.

On bike duration:   4 hrs, 10 minutes. 

Average speed: 16.6 mph

Total Accumulated Miles:  1,886

Today was a very good day! I fear I may have protested too much in my journal entry last night. Even on a bad day, this is a very fun endeavor. 

We are done with the Hill Country, and are rolling toward Cajun Country. I think the whole group was energized by the flatter roads. We made good time on the 69 miler today. Tom, Andrea, Jim, and I took several turns on the front of the line and sustained 20 to 21 mph for many miles. 

Most of the countryside was forested - piney woods, interrupted by small towns. We passed by an acreage that had an Emu herd. I almost missed it as I passed by. But I saw the birds standing there next to the fence. You see a lot of detail by crossing the country on a bicycle - that most travelers (even on a motorcycle) never see. It’s fascinating!

We crossed over the Trinity River, and I got a terrible picture of it (at 18 mph). I had heard of the Trinity, but I had no idea it was so vast. I will attribute this tributary to the fact that we are approaching the Mississippi Delta and all of the rivers are getting bigger before they dump into the Gulf.

Tonight, we dined at “Tia Juanita’s Fish Camp”. During dinner, I was presented with “Rita”. I’ll explain: About three weeks ago, our intrepid guide - Dennis - introduced us to “Flo-Rita”, a green, orange, and white Florida Aligator (It’s actually “Yoshi”, a Mario character. But, don’t tell.) Rita had lost her way and ended up way out West. She wanted to make her way back to Florida, and had always wanted to ride on a bicycle. So, our group’s mission was to ensure safe passage for Rita to her home while she is attached to someone’s bike. Dennis pronounced the first of Rita’s travel guardians and said there are no rules, but that each time Rita is passed on to the next traveler, she has to be attached to the bike, to have the wind blow sweetly on her face. Rita has changed guardians four times; each time at an evening dinner, and each time with elaborate fanfare, either grand oration or a catchy poem. Tonight, Andrea handed Rita off to me with a recitation of Rita once traveling the castles of Wales and she felt inclined to gift the red castle of Wales - “Castile Coch” - to me because of my red bicycle and red cycling clothes. 

I will cherish my time with Rita - long enough to devise some type of processional hand-off worthy of Rita’s mission.

Tonight - it’s the La Quinta of Lumberton. Comfy enough!





Friday, March 29, 2024

Day 24 - It was Good Friday, but could have been better.

Departure: Navasota, TX      Finish:  Cleveland, TX       

Distance:    76.4 miles

Elevation gain:  2,412 feet 

Winds: Southern at 15 to 18 mph.

Weather:  High clouds; scattered to broken.  56 to 75 degrees.

On bike duration:   5 hrs, 6 minutes. 

Average speed: 14.9 mph

Total Accumulated Miles:  1,816.8

The weather was beautiful again today. Great temperatures. There was a strong southern wind, but it was masked by the Sam Houston National Forest most of the way, so we didn’t suffer on south-bound stretches. There is plenty to be thankful for on this Good Friday. 

Nevertheless, it was somewhat stressful. I had three flat tires. One was in a muddy section of road under construction. Worse, however, was the road chosen for our route. We spent much of the day on a two lane, which the TX department of transportation calls “Farm To Market 1375”. That road became TX HWY 150. It was a very heavily travelled two-lane road with a shoulder that was only 12 inches wide! In that situation if you are a cyclist - let alone a group of 10 - you are very stressed by the roar of all the vehicles. All those screaming trucks, cars, motorcycles, and FedEx delivery vans are stressed by our existence as well. We had a number of people honk at us, yell at us, and one misbehaved youth stuck his Full Moon through the window at us. One motor home brushed past us without giving any distance at all. We really try to be unobtrusive, but it IS the route to the Atlantic. Not much I can do about it.

We passed by the northern part of Lake Conroe. It’s the largest body of water I have seen since we left San Diego. The Sam Houston National Forest is very large and very dense. I saw several trailheads that looked very inviting. Other than that, there wasn’t much to remark about today.

I can say a few words about Tom and Athena. They are riding a tandem bike across the U.S. They are from Chattanooga, Tennessee but they have lived all over the world. They have cycled in many countries. They worked for the State Department in a variety of places. They met years ago when Athena (a medical doctor) was in Nepal supporting a group that Tom was working for. They do an amazing job of working together on that bike. It was custom made for them, to fit both their sizes and preferences. They are always ready with a smile and an encouraging thought. Wonderful adventurers and great companions for this journey. They’ve been retired for four years.


Our meal this evening was our first taste of real Southern Cooking, at a restaurant called the Farm Hand Cafe. I had “Shrimp and Grits” and the table had a couple orders of “Boudin Egg Rolls” (pronounced Beau-Daa). It’s sausage and rice in a deep fried, rolled up something or other. We’re real close to Cajun Country.


This sign was hanging on the wall at the Farm Hand Cafe:


Tonight we’re at the Best Western in Cleveland. I get the feeling the BW brand is Dennis’ preferred host. It seems we bunk at a Best Western every time one is in our path.


I think we’re done with 98% of the hills. Halleluah! Tomorrow’s ride publishes only 800 feet of climbing.


Thursday, March 28, 2024

Day 23 - The Roller Coaster I Can’t Get Off

Departure: La Grange, TX      Finish:  Navasota, TX       

Distance:    82.8 miles

Elevation gain:  3,316 feet 

Winds: SSW at 3 to 6 mph (again, not a factor)

Weather:  Bright Sun, almost perfect!  51 to 75 degrees.

On bike duration:   5 hrs, 41 minutes. 

Average speed: 14.5 mph

Total Accumulated Miles:  1,740.4

I still love Texas, but I’m really over the rolling hills. As I approached the crest of every hill today, I got a view of the next one in the distance. It was just sitting there; smirking at me, as if to say, “You thought you were done didn’t you? You thought you would be able to coast into your hotel stay tonight, didn’t you? Well, this hill has plenty more sibling hills to challenge your weary legs, you mere mortal!”





That’s almost a direct quote from the hill just east of Independence, Texas. Incidentally, Independence is the site of the original campus for Baylor University. It began as an all female school in 1845. I am guessing they eventually met financial woes and joined Waco College, becoming the co-ed institution we know today. That site is where we dined for our noon-time meal today. Overall, it was another wonderful day, with great temperatures, light breezes, and spectacular scenery. Most of the day, we were on backroads that had never had striping painted on them, had very little traffic - but incessant undulations.

 

We rolled into Navasota just in time for me to be greeted by Tom Neff, a long time friend from my “Up With People” days in 1977-78. Tom lives in Spring, TX and took me to his favorite BBQ joint, “Rudy’s” in College Station. Another man walked in behind us, and to my surprise, it was Rick Guttenberger! He was also in my “UWP” group, but I had no idea he was coming. I hadn’t seen Rick in several decades. We had a wonderful conversation (and good BBQ). Both Tom and Rick have had very full and rewarding lives. What a great time! Thanks to both of them for making the effort.

By the way, avid readers of this journal (meaning me, and maybe Valerie) will notice that I have some kind of white fungus on my face. I have never worn a beard before. I will not wear a beard after we reach the Atlantic. But, I decided - on a whim - to skip the razor for these six weeks. It’s like the great frontier for me. Another exploration on this epic adventure.

Tonight we are in the Days Inn, conveniently located a foot or two from busy Route 6. The signage isn’t as impressive as it could be. I believe it was a Best Western two weeks ago.



Wednesday, March 27, 2024

Day 22 - Spring in Texas

Departure: Austin, TX      Finish:  La Grange, TX       

Distance:    78.3 miles

Elevation gain:  2,407 feet 

Winds: ESE at 4 mph (not a factor)

Weather:  Overcast, Cool, with light rain. Departed at 51 degrees. Arrived with 68 degrees.

On bike duration:   5 hrs, 18 minutes. 

Average speed: 14.7 mph

Total Accumulated Miles:  1,657.6

We departed the urban core with the threat of rain. We wound our way out of town on the edge of the road, with bike paths littered with debris and gravel. As we made our way Eastward, the wildflowers went with us. We saw fewer Blue Bonnets. The roadsides were dominated by Indian Paintbrush. I have learned that “first lady” Claudia Johnson (better known as Lady Bird) is responsible for the hundreds of miles of roadside wildflowers we have enjoyed. In 1965 she influenced Congress to enact the “Highway Beautification Act”. My only memory of that action was the sudden building of solid fences (walls) around every salvage yard - to hide the unsightly junk. She was also responsible for the beautiful Texas roadsides we see today. As I have been told, the Texas DOT spreads 30,000 pounds of wildflower seed into the roadsides every year. Works for me.

As we rolled on, beyond the Austin-Bergstrom Airport toward Bastrop, the view was mostly of run-down clapboard houses and mobile homes. This prompted one of my companions to remark that we may have seen the best of Texas - from the Far West to Austin. As we continued after our lunch stop in Smithville, however, we were greeted by the most beautiful, wooded pastureland I have seen. Big, fat cattle munching contentedly on lush grass that Fort Davis and Del Rio bovines can only dream of.

Approaching La Grange, I was surprised to see the pastures give way to thicker forests of Cedar and White Pine. (Something else I didn’t know about Texas.)

I want to tell you about another one of our riders - Rahul Razdhan; one of the world’s most interesting men. His parents emigrated to the U.S. from India when he was seven. He lives in Ocala Florida, about 60 miles west of our final destination. Rahul is a scientist, a consultant and an accomplished public speaker. He has run 10 marathons. He has been to the summit of Kilimanjaro. In 2017 he was a featured “TED Talk” presenter on the subject of the “Future of Education”. (You can find it on YouTube.) He’s curious about everything. He finds something in each town to research, and shares it with the group.

We all stopped at DQ this afternoon; a mile & a half from our hotel. Rahul picked up the tab.

When I was preparing for this adventure, I researched all the equipment I might need to ensure my success in crossing the continent. My bicycle is specially designed and engineered for endurance. The tires are specifically made for durability. My cycling shoes have rigid soles for efficient power. They clip into the pedals, like a ski binding. I have a headlight, tail light, phone mount and computer to give me all the data I have been recording in this journal. 

Rahul, on the other hand, is riding a 25 year-old bike that he bought at a pawn shop. He doesn’t have traditional road-bike clothing - none of the skin tight stuff for him. He wears basic running shoes every day. He’s not a cyclist. He’s an Explorer. But, he has cycled on several tours up and down the east coast. Every day, he powers up the hills and often leads the pack on a straight, level road. He savors the downhills as well. The man is one of the strongest riders in the group.


Tonight I am in room 142 of the River Valley Motor Inn, nestled snuggly between a Ford dealer and a liquor store; just up the street from the Colorado River.



Tuesday, March 26, 2024

Day 21- The Rolling Hills of Texas

Departure: Fredericksburg, TX      Finish:  Austin, TX       

Distance:    87.4 miles

Elevation gain:  5,161 feet 

Winds: N at 3 to 5 mph (not a factor)

Weather:  Clear. Cool. Departed at 41 degrees. Arrived with 68 degrees.

On bike duration:   5 hrs, 54 minutes. 

Average speed: 14.8 mph

Total Accumulated Miles:  1,579.3

I have now had my fill of rolling hills! Today’s route offered almost no level surface; only a roller coaster. There were some really fun descents, but there were also grueling climbs - 15% climb at the end of the day.

We were on back country roads all day, until we entered the suburbs of Austin. Very beautiful. Turns out, the Blue Bonnets and Paintbrush were in full bloom. Once again there is no way to capture the landscape with a camera phone, but I tried.

Valerie leaves tomorrow morning. What a blessing it has been for us to be together for three days. I will see her next when we arrive at the Atlantic Ocean.

I have a relative living in Austin - Matt Henry, the son of my first cousin Nancy Henry. While we were in town Valerie and I contacted Matt and were delighted to have dinner with him. He picked a great new Italian spot, just down the street from his apartment, called Poeta. Great conversation. Great food.

Tonight, we are staying at the East Austin Hotel. It’s in the VERY hip - and young - part of Austin, east of I-35. We took an urban bike route to get here. I expect an equally urban experience as we depart tomorrow.

I am amazed at the number of construction cranes in downtown Austin. This town is experience massive growth.





Day 39 - At Last! The Atlantic!

Departure:  Palatka, FL      Finish:  St. Augustine, FL   Distance:     34.4  miles Elevation gain:  659 feet  Winds: From the North at 3 to...